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Higher and Faster
By: Morgan Reeser
To get the most out of your equipment, read the sail maker's tuning guide.
Ensure your rig tuning and sail controls are set according to the sail maker's
guidelines. Measure and then remeasure them. Once you reach the starting line,
you should be confident that you have your boat prepared properly. But a tuning
guide won't solve your upwind speed problems out on the race course. To do this
, you must develop an understanding of the controls, or what I call the "cures"
that will remedy your upwind performance problems.
When trying to cure a performance problem, try only one adjustment at a time. If
you try more than one adjustment at a time you will not know the effect of one
that may be negative, even though another adjustment may have a positive effect.
Once an adjustment has been made, note its effectiveness (either positive or
negative) and only then try another adjustment if performance is lacking.
Most importantly, keep an open mind. Don't have a maximum or minimum for any
adjustment on the boat. Murry Jones from New Zealand revolutionized the Flying
Dutchman Class by raking his mast up to three feet aft than ever before. His
vision became a class standard and your vision can possibly become a Y-Flyer
standard.
To find the right cure for your performance problem, get use to thinking in the
following sequence. Visualize sailing upwind; a boat to windward is starting to
roll over you. Obviously you have a speed deficiency, so go through the
checklist of cures for poor speed. Main leech too tight? Ease the main sheet
slightly. You wait a moment. That helped a little, but you're still not going
fast enough. Better try something else. Main too full? Don't think so, move onto
the next cure list. Too much weather helm? Raise the centreboard slightly. Now
that did the trick.
If you encounter a pointing problem, you can go through the same process for
pointing. Main leech too open? Increase the sheet tension. Main too flat?
Decrease the mast bend. Jib entry too round? Move the jib lead inboard. Jib
leech too tight? Increase jib sheet tension.
Some additional tips that you may wish to consider influencing the amount of
helm are as follows. Mast rake forward to decrease weather helm and mast rake
aft to decrease lee helm. This works in light air and flat water. The crew
position can be critical. In general you can move the crew weight forward to
point and a bit aft to go fast in heavy air.
Remember, it is not necessarily the weight or age of the sails but what you can
do with them as a result of wind conditions. Good sailing to you all.
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GO IT ALONE, IT'S FASTER
By: Michael Flannigan
Almost everyone who attends regattas with large fleets eventually finds
themselves back in the tank at the weather mark. Their immediate problem at this
point is of course how to pass enough boats to get back in the ball game. One
technique used by many with great success for passing large numbers of boats on
broad reaches and runs is to pass groups not individuals. Boats on runs in large
fleets tend to flock together. Think back at the pattern of boats you normally
see. Singles go faster than flocks. All factors being equal single boats will go
faster than groups for several reasons. First the lead boats in the group are
slowed by the blanketing effect of those astern. Second, unless they leave the
group, the boats behind are slowed because when their extra speed compared to
the leaders allow them to catch the leaders, they can pass them in a blanketing
zone or unable to pass because there is no hole to go through. very often many
can't go around because of the congestion of surrounding boats. Finally, the
"snow fence effect", often noted just before the start, diverting air over and
around the group resulting in reduced wind velocity for all boats.
Other factors in favour of the single boat is the skipper can concentrate on
boat speed, can manoeuvre to be in a better position and has a better chance to
see and get to the wind. Jibing in a large group can be murderous. Keep clear of
large groups of boats if possible. If passing a large group, pass as wide as
possible and when cutting back wait until you are clear and well ahead. If you
end up fighting with another boat you will slow and loose your advantage. Be
aware and win!
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THE ART OF LIGHT WIND SAILING
By: The CYFYRA
Light wind sailing is definitely an art. In most regattas you can expect two
races minimum to be sailed in light wind, so it is critical that you master this
type of wind condition. The first and most important thing to remember is
patience. Position of the skipper and crew in the boat is the next
consideration. The Y-Flyer is a V shaped hull. To maximize any speed possible it
is important for the boat to be on a single plane. If this means that both the
skipper and crew are both on the same side to allow the boat to be heeled then
do it. Try to keep your butts from being in the water to reduce the drag effect.
The crew and skipper should be as far forward as possible as to keep the aft
section out of the water to minimize drag. This maybe uncomfortable for the
skipper to view his main sail telltales but a necessity.
You may not be able to control the wind but you can adjust your sails. When
going upwind first you need to adjust your sails to the wind conditions. If both
main and jib are in too tight you will stale or choke your boat speed. In very
light winds ease the jib out. The main sail should also have a bag shape at the
boom level so take the out haul off and boom vang. The main sail should be
allowed to move out of the boat. The skipper needs to keep an eye on the main's
second batten telltale. If the telltale is not flying straight back then
continue to let the main out until it is. In addition, try to keep your sheets
both main and jib out of the water to reduce drag.
Keep an eye on the direction of the wind and be aware of "holes" and thermals
that may or may not be of assistance. If there is a shift in the wind go with
it. It may not always take you as close to the mark as you wish but it keeps the
boat moving. Once you stall and are dead in the water it will take time to get
moving again. If the wind completely dies then you must be really, really
patient and wait. This also means not moving around in the boat. Be completely
still. Light wind sailing in many ways takes more ability, stamina and
concentration than sailing in heavy winds.
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WHY IS THE Y-FLYER A
FAST BOAT
By: The CYFYRA
The hull lines of the Y-Flyer were adapted from those of large inland lake scows
which hold most of the world's sailing speed records. The hull shape has been
scientifically developed over a period of years as the best performer on
comparitively smooth water. There are some very good reasons for this spade nose
design. All the lines can be longer, easier, flatter curves, without narrowing
the beam or resorting to excessive lengths. When the boat is heeled slightly on
a twelve (12) degree angle, almost everthing in the book that makes a boat fast
takes place. The waterline length is extended. The waterline beam is cut almost
in half. The wetted surface is greatly reduced. An underwater shape is produced
which does not increase the drift as hulls with widely flared sides tend to do.
A fore and aft line drawn through the centres at each frame would actually arch
to windward. With these centres so far to lee, stability is inherent. An
excellent planing surface is formed and the boat will lift with moderate wind.
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HANDLING NEW CREW
By: Carlos Frewin
Again its that time, in the off season at parties when people who find you have a sailboat let you know they have always wanted to try sailing. You may wish to avoid their company come spring so you may wish to consider these tactics to make sure they never ask you again. These are almost guaranteed to work, especially if your crew is new to sailing, a little nervous or cannot swim.
1. Mention that you go sailing in any weather, the rougher it is the more
exciting.
2. If they ask if the boat will tip, just say, 'It hasn't yet!'
3. Ask them to bring an extra change of clothing as you get lots of spray and
the odd wave in the cockpit.
4. When they arrive, ask if they read the news about the sailors who were lost
in that race down under.
5. Tell them about the close calls a few of your fellow sailors have had with
broken rigging and summer squalls. Be sure to mention the person that fell
overboard.
6. Show them the bucket that 'another crew' used because he was sick most of the
sail.
7. Haul in the sails on a broad reach and get the boat heeling - 10 degrees is
OK for modest discomfort, 15 degrees for genuine panic and 20 degrees and above
for a show stopper.
8. Bark out a couple of orders using as much terminology as possible, such as
stow that spring line, or shorten the topping lift or tie a figure eight in the
main sheet.
9. Above all, don't tell them where you are going, or what you are going to do
next and why. Just yell, 'Coming about' and hope for the best.
10. Don't pay any attention to worried looks and ignore requests to wear a PFD.
11. Be sure to mention that you haven't had time to check out a through hull
fitting and you hope it holds.
12. When they cannot hold out any longer let the mainsheet out so it takes twice
as long to return to the dock for them to use the facilities.
13. When you arrive at the dock, mention how calm and easy it was. Then ask them
to come racing for some real excitment.
14. Introduce them to friends (or enemies) who are on the lookout for crew.
15. And finally, at no time during the outing mention or even hint how much you
love to sail, how much you enjoy the peace and quiet and the chance to renew
your soul.
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BOAT CARE
By: The CYFYRA
Many young skippers feel that they have some magic bag full of tricks, or a
special formula for moving the mast around before they can tune their boats. The
truth is much simplier, as any good racing skipper will tell you. The best
tuning is simply good upkeep of your boat.
The hull is the place to start. If you keep it neat, clean and dry, both inside
and outside, you have gone a long way towards making your boat faster than any
others in your fleet. When water is allowed to stand or accumulate in the
cockpit of a wooden hull Y-Flyer, the wood will absorb some of the water if not
properly coated with epoxy. Over a summer of sailing the water in the wood may
nearly double the hull weight, making your boat slower. In older fiberglass
boats this can also occur.
Unless your boat is stored in a shed, cover the cockpit, and the complete boat
if at all possible with a plastic or a good quality canvas boat cover. The best
type of cover is one that fits over the boom and comes down the sides of the
boat. This should allow for ample circulation of air both fore and aft sections.
Otherwisw the moisture inside will collect and heat up with the sun promoting
growth of fungus and mildew. A simple cover that has both ends open will keep
air moving. The cover will also protect the damage caused by UV.
At each station of your wood Y-Flyer, along the centreboard trunk there should
be small drain holes. This allows the water to drain to the lowest part of the
hull and is evacuated by the bailers. These bailers may not be perfectly
installed, so water may remain against the centreboard. You may have to sponge
from time to time. Drain holes plug up frequently and should be cleaned from
time to time with a small wire or a clothes hanger.
Keeping the hull smooth and clean cannot be emphasized enough. All wetted
surfaces, the boat bottom, rudder and centreboard make friction in the water.
This slows the boat down. If these surfaces become dirty or damaged, even a
small amount, the boat will be even slower. The answer to this is to scrub the
bottom and if necessary wet sand with soap and 600 grade sandpaper. Some
skippers also wet sand and paint their centreboards to reduce drag in the water.
If you are hauling your Y-Flyer to a regatta, even with a bottom cover, it is
important to wash and scrub the bottom of the hull when you arrive. You would be
surprised actually how much dirt can penetrate through the bottom cover on a
trip. Boats can be tipped on their trailers, at a dock or a sandy shoreline.
Many an old hand will tell you that the way to store your boat is near the water
that you sail on and in the same upright position as when sailing. This is good
advice. Storage outdoors keeps the boat in the same dryness or dampness that
exists in nature. If kept in a warm cellar or garage the hull will dry out and
even crack from the winter heat. However, the boat needs protection from the
elements, especially ice and snow, so the ideal storage would be in a unheated
outside shed. Otherwise a small frame should be built over the hull and covered
with a waterproof tarp. Air should be free to circulate underneath. You can
store the boat on your trailer, but you may wish to jack up the axial to take
the weight off the trailer tires. Flipping the boat over is also a good idea, to
prevent water from entering into the cockpit. You may wish to cover the hull to
protect the paint or finish. Make sure all the water is out of the boat and
remove all sheets and halyards. A few ounces of prevention will keep your boat
in good shape and prevent costly repairs in the spring. This will allow you more
time for sailing rather than being stuck on shore completing repairs.
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SAIL STORAGE
By: North Sails
Store sails for the off season in a warm dry space away from hot items like
furnaces, water pipes and electric heaters. Sails should be folded or rolled to
avoid unnecessary creasing which breaks down the material. Take your sails in
for annual inspection and maintenance. If this is not practical, spread them out
and look for wear, broken stiches and rips.
Annual cleaning to remove dirt and salt before winter storage is good. Use a
mild laundry detergent, a brush and rinse thoroughly. Do not use excessive
agitation. Dry before folding or rolling up for storage.
Mildew should be killed as soon as it appears to stop spreading. Small areas can
be sprayed with Lysol spray. Larger areas can be washed with a 25% solution of
Clorox bleach and water. Note sails made with kevlar or nylon should never be
exposed to Clorox. Allow to rinse thoroughly with a hose. Stains will fade
slowly with sunlight exposure once the mildew is dead. Storing sails dry in a
well ventilated area reduces the chance of mildew.
In damp climates, spraying Lysol into the sail bag before closing will help
reduce the chance of mildew. A suggestion is to add a pocket to the inside of
sail bags for a sponge that gets soaked in Lysol to help kill mildew.
CYFYRA Note
A quick fix for stiches and small tears is waxed dental floss string and
inexpensive but strong surgical tape found in any drugstore. See your local sail
loft for repairs at your next earliest convenience.
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ARE YOU A PASSIONATE SAILOR? THE TRUE TEST
By: The CYFYRA
1. If your crew puts up the spinnaker sideways, do you:
- Patiently explain what they did wrong and ask them to try again?
- Begin pelting them with turnbuckles, beer cans and any other objects close at
hand?
2. If another boat crashes into yours, do you:
- Immediately ask if everyone is OK?
- Jump into the cockpit of the other boat and start to strangle it's skipper?
3. When sailing in flat calm, do you:
- Sit back, relax and work on your tan?
- Hoist your youngest to the top of the mast and tell him or her to look for wind?
4. When a crew member complains that he or she is wet, cold or otherwise
uncomfortable, do you:
- Listen sympathetically, then try to relieve the person's discomfort?
- Shrug your shoulders and snarl 'WIMP!'
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TACTICS: COVERING AND BREAKING COVER
By: The CYFYRA
An important tactic that one should remember when protecting a lead or your
position is to cover your opposition. Providing what we call a 'loose' cover can
do this. This means that though you may be several boat lengths in the lead, you
stay on the same tack as your opposition. That way they don't get a shift of
wind that you won't get. Races have been lost because the lead boat had not paid
attention to what was happening behind them. Even if you are on a tack that is a
bad tack, your opposition is also on the same bad tack. They are not going to
get air that you won't get.
Breaking cover is the counter to the lead boat covering. This is an art and can
be done in several ways. Know your opposition and their boat speed. If you want
to slow them down you can get into a tacking duel. Everytime a Y-Flyer tacks,
depending on wind speed, it looses approximately two boat lengths. This is
something a skipper and crew must master, working as a team. The crews acts as
the traffic controller, advising the skipper of the lead boat's position. The
boat breaking cover may end up tacking several times in short succession. It
also depends if the lead boat wants to play. There is also the false tack,
making it look like you are tacking, then at the last second pull back and
maintain course. If the opposition is too eager, they may change course. This
may be the break you are looking for to get away.
If the lead boat is covering two boats, they can cover both if everyone is on
the same tack. However, you are not going to win if you stay on the same tack.
Split away on different tacks. The lead boat must then make a decision on which
boat to cover. To counter this split the lead boat must make a decision on their
opposition. Who has the better boat speed, who is on the most favourable tack
and who is the most experienced skipper.
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WANT TO GO FASTER
By: CYFYRA
Do you want to go faster? Then get tuned up. Go to the y-flyer.ca links section
and there you will find the North Sails Tuning Guide. This will tell you how to
make the most modern adjustments to your sails and rigging. The back of the mast
slot to the centreboard should be 16 inches. The back of the mast slot to the
forestay connection to the deck should be 100 inches. The fair lead slides
should be angled as such that when you measure from the jib sheet exit from the
fair lead block that it is 13 to 13.5 inches to the centre of the mast.
The next order of business is to know where the wind is coming from in all wind
conditions and how to respond. Tell tales on all four sides stays are tres
(very) important, in light or shifting winds. So make sure you have them on the
boat and bring extra on board in case they are accidentally damaged and need to
be replaced during or after a race. So use non static wool...but if you still
have unused tape decks, they work great. The Rolling Stones "Jumpin Jack Flash"
works the best.
Tell tales not only on the side stays tells the tale where the wind is coming
from....the tell tails on your sails do the same thing. If you want to point
higher and go faster upwind then you need to not only look at your jib sail but
as important your main sail as well. Don't bother looking at other boats....they
could be in a different wind streak. The two sails must work together to be
totally effective. The second batten of your main sail must have a tell tale on
the end of it, and is the indicator whether you have the right trim or not. The
tell tale on the main should be fluttering straight back and then collapsing
behind the main sail to reach the proper main sail trim. If not allow the main
sail to go out further until the tell tale is straight back. Then trim
accordingly. If the tell tale is straight back....keep pulling the main sheet in
until it begins to collapse.. If you get it right in moderate or better winds,
the centre board will begin to hum. That's all the skipper does on the
upwind....look at the jib and main tell tales...and the odd glance over the
shoulder to make sure another Y-Flyer is not in their ear!.
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